BEANS—WHAT DO YOU DO WITH THEM?

Phaseolus vulgaris, the “common bean,” originated in Mexico but has since spread across the globe. In his excellent book Beans: A History (2007), American author Ken Albala compares the bean to humanity itself—both having managed to establish themselves in every conceivable climate. Consequently, there is a vast array of regional recipes; in the United States, for instance, beans are often prepared with molasses or syrup—sometimes even with a splash of whiskey. The Dutch brand Hak has noted that they have always included a touch of syrup in their beans, a detail now highlighted on their labels as “Dutch-style”. Back in the day, we (in South Holland) would indeed eat them with syrup, butter, and applesauce. In her book Uit Grootmoeders keuken (“From Grandmother’s Kitchen”, 1972), Ria Holleman describes a sauce (stip) made of syrup and vinegar, served with crispy fried bacon bits alongside the beans, calling it “absolutely delicious.” She also mentions that fishermen in Scheveningen used to make a sauce from syrup and beer. In Groningen, people would stir cooked beans, bacon, and pieces of boerenmetworst (a traditional farmhouse sausage) into a thick, buttermilk-based porridge, serving it with a side of syrup. Accustomed as we were to such bold regional dishes—and later to the piquant, richly spiced flavors of Chinese cuisine—it is no wonder that the robust Texan bean dish, chili con carne, found a home here years ago. Under the name chili sin carne, it was quickly embraced by vegan cooking, where this protein-rich crop is a favorite ingredient for culinary experimentation.