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Spring Pie, Old French

Ingredients

Baking equipment:

 

Dough:

 

Filling:

This tourte you can find in Le Mesnagier de Paris (The Housefather of Paris, Livre de Poche, 2010), dating from around 1393. A wonderful book, written by an elderly gentleman for his 16-year-old wife, who, because she was an orphan, had never learned how to run a household. He tells her that eating when you are not hungry or have not prayed is just as sinful as gluttony. In passing, he puts an end to the myth that people in the Middle Ages disliked vegetables. In fact, he gives instructions for a large number of plants in his kitchen garden and turns out to have even grown violets for a special omelet.

Savory tarts were popular in that distant past. Table forks were not yet known, and such a pie could easily be eaten with three fingers. People in France still bake tarts with Swiss chard and cheese. True culinary art does not simply abandon a good idea.

*Do not discard the veins and stems from the greens: cut into 4 cm pieces; next day, boil for 10 minutes with 1 red onion in rings, chopped parsley, and garlic. Drain. Toss with some olive oil.