Bean Patties with Green Beans

Serves two:

Mexican bean patties:

• 1 tbsp cumin seeds
• 1 small can of beans (as specified alongside)
• (drained weight 250g)
• 1 clove of garlic
• 1 tbsp finely chopped red chili pepper
• 1 spring onion, finely chopped
• 50g feta, crumbled
• 50g white breadcrumbs (panko)
• 1 small egg
• butter

 

Mexican-style green beans:

• 250g green beans
• 2 ripe tomatoes
• red chili pepper
• a pinch of cinnamon

 

South America is the realm of beans—the best meat substitutes in existence. While the Maya certainly enjoyed eating meat—according to Cortés, Moctezuma II would serve 300 meat dishes at a single meal in the sixteenth century—they turned to beans whenever meat wasn’t available. And they loved them! In Mayan riddles, black beans were referred to as “a basket full of little black birds.” Even back then, they were seasoned with chili peppers, as noted in Sophie D. Coe’s excellent book, America’s First Cuisines (1994, p. 163).

Some claim that certain banquets in Mexico can consist of as many as ten courses featuring beans. It’s not impossible; there is certainly a vast array of ways to prepare them.

Take these patties, for instance—Tortitas de frijoles (made with kidney or black beans)—for which I have developed my own version. They are a variation on frijoles refritos, a coarse bean purée typically scooped up with tacos. They are served alongside green beans—introduced to Europe from South America by Columbus—prepared here in the Mexican style (ejotes con chili).

• Toast the cumin seeds in a dry frying pan. Add the canned beans—drained in a sieve—to the same pan, mashing them as they cook to allow the moisture to evaporate; include the pressed garlic clove, the finely chopped red chili, and the onion. Transfer the mixture to a mixing bowl and let it cool. Once cooled, crumble the feta (which is similar to Mexican white cheese) into the beans. Add breadcrumbs and egg, mix well, and shape into 4 flat patties (press them firmly together). Place in the refrigerator for 5 minutes (or until you are ready to cook).
• Wash the frying pan. Heat a generous amount of butter in it and fry the patties until golden brown on both sides. Serve with the green beans.
• Boil the trimmed green beans in a large pot of water (15 minutes). Ten seconds before draining, add the tomatoes to the pot. Peel the tomatoes and cut them into wedges. Combine with the drained beans, the pepper (if you are a beginner, use a deseeded chili) and the cinnamon, and heat through. Garnish with parsley or cilantro.